That caught my attention because my wife Belinda and I have
been to Brazil three times in the last six years and never have we even seen
the Amazon let alone swim in it. But we have our own adventures. Most of them
have dealt with two things we hold most dear – food and money.
So let me tell you about our adventures and they occur in
three different places – the megacity of Sao Paulo, the small city of Bebadouro
and the beaches along the Atlantic Ocean.
The reason we fly 4000 miles to Sao Paulo is that’s the home
town of our daughter-in-law Camila. It’s a city of about 25 million people to
30 million people – second only to Mexico City as the largest city in the
western hemisphere. As the late Anthony Bourdain said, “It’s so large it makes
LA look like Hooterville.”
Now imagine if you will a Sunday morning street fair in Sao
Paulo. There are fruit and fish vendors lined up for miles along a
thoroughfare. As we get out of the car and walk toward the crowds, my son – who
is married to Camila – feels it necessary to tell me, “And whatever else you do
here today, don’t get lost in the crowd.”
Well, imagine my surprise when I’m hanging out with my gang
of about 12 people at the street fair only to turn around and find them all
gone. They have vanished. All I see is a sea of people and what’s worse is they
all look the same. They all have brown skin and black hair. I can’t use my cell
phone because it doesn’t work in Brazil.
I don’t know if I should move and start looking for them, or
should I stay put until someone notices that I’m gone and comes back to find
me.
Alas, I see Camila’s sister – or at least someone who looks
like her sister – but, sadly, no. It’s just another of a thousand people at the
street fair who looks exactly like my Brazilian relatives. At last, I find my
wife. She’s ordering something from one of the vendors. So I walk over with
happy elation written all over my face. Then I come upon my son who scolds me
for getting lost.
“You are a known flight risk,” he says. “Stay with the
group.”
Belinda is ordering homemade candy. And they are making it
in front of our eyes. They have a hot iron skillet that they fill with tapioca
flour and fry it over a blue propane flame. They flip it and then pour
sweetened condensed milk on it, fold it over, take it out of the pan and hand it
to Belinda. It’s simple to make and tastes like you are eating a Mounds candy
bar.
We love it so much that Belinda buys a small bag of the
white tapioca flour. The vendor tells us that once the bag is opened, it needs
to be eaten at once or it will spoil…thus the small bag.
Well, this is perfect. We look forward to taking our bag of
tapioca flour back to North Dakota and making our own homemade candy, until we
get to the airport in Sao Paulo. A bag of tapioca flour looks a lot like a bag
of cocaine to airport security personnel. So after having our luggage x-rayed,
opened and examined, the tapioca flour passes the smell test and we are allowed
to keep it with us.
My second story about food occurs in Bebedouro, a city about
the size of Bismarck. Camila’s grandfather and a couple of uncles live here.
After Sao Paulo, Bebedouro seems like Mayberry. Everyone is friendly and in the
center of town is a park. It is at the park that we come upon hot dog vendors.
Now, we are no stranger to hot dogs. We’ve eaten hot dogs in
every major league baseball park and a few minor league parks. We’ve also eaten
them in New York City where they are affectionately known as dirty water dogs.
So no, it’s best not to invest too much time into the integrity of the sausage. Simply close your eyes and bite down on them.
But the Brazilian hot dog is a different breed altogether.
While American dogs are generally dyed red, the Brazilian dogs are orange….no,
not just orange, sort of a florescent orange….like the color of the vests worn
by hunters in North Dakota.
So here’s a street vendor selling orange hot dogs. But
instead of the normal condiments like ketchup and mustard, the Brazilians are
used to eating their hot dogs smothered with cooked green peas and mashed
potatoes.
Okay, here’s where I draw the line. First, I’m not sure if I
could even eat an orange hot dog, but I’m sure that I can’t eat one covered in
green peas. So while the rest of the brave people downed a hot dog, I waited
for our next stop – the ice cream shop. Only to my dismay, the flavors of the
ice cream are also like the hot dogs. Anyone eat ice cream that tastes like
sweet corn before? You can in Bebedouro. I stuck with more familiar flavors –
chocolate smothered with the ubiquitous sweetened condensed milk.
My third stop on this journey is a beach – this particular
beach doesn’t need a name because they are all over the place a hundred miles or so
east of Sao Paulo. Some are coves, some are jetties, some are white sand and
some are rocky. But they have a few things in common – they are full of people and they
have young men who wait on your every need.
It's best to get there early so you can pick out the best
spot, which is in front of the food and beverage cabana. Here you want someone who
speaks Portuguese to set up a tab for you and your group. If they know you are
American, you’ll probably end up paying too much. But if your name is Claudiney
or Guilherme, they’ll treat you right.
So at the end of the day after devouring high octane sodas, mixed drinks
over the rocks and a host of foods on a stick, it’s time to pay the bill.
Generally, our little group averages about eight to 10 of us. The Brazilian
dollar is known as real (pronounced HAY-eye). For every American dollar, you
can get somewhere between three and four reals. So it’s a good thing to be an
American.
Rather than splitting up the bill eight ways, the young men
who have kept our drinks fresh and fried our food on a stick to perfection,
would just as soon that one person pay the bill in full and leave them a tip.
This is where Belinda comes in. She hands them a credit card. Any translation
is done by our daughter-in-law who speaks fluent English and Portuguese. In an
instant, the bill is paid and our credit card shows that we paid one-fourth of
what the bill actually was.
Because of the amazing exchange rate, we are what is known
as Brazilianaires…just average run of the mill Americans who can pay a fraction
of what someone from Brazil would pay. It’s a great system…for us and our
relatives.
But the real cherry on top is that the vendors like the
arrangement so much that they are more
than happy to give Belinda a free drink…the proverbial one for the road. It’s a
concoction of fresh fruit, ice, wine and the ever present sweetened condensed milk.
So while we haven’t swam with piranhas, we have had our
share of Brazilian adventures. Hopefully, next year, we can add to the list.
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